Wood Working Tools for MakingKayaks

The tools required to build a strip kayak are fairly basic. Here you will find a list of the most basic through some of the more major items that might come in handy. These tools are all available for purchase from Amazon.com. Most of the tools below are the same that I use or a close equivalent.

Essential Tools
	Stanley Pocket Knife: If you don't all ready own a jack knife, this knife should do the trick for quick shaping and trimming of strips.
	Stanley Block Plane Used for shaping strips to fit and for smoothing out the boat before sanding. This tool is less likely to cause tearout than the higher angle block plane
	Japanese Pull Saw: Used to cut strips. Since it cuts on the pull stroke it is very thin. Cuts very easily.
	Stapler: A standard stapler for securing the strips to the forms while the glue dries.
	Sanding Block:Successful sanding requires firm support behind the paper. These blocks from 3M work well.
	Starrett Combinations Square: A basic tool which will help aligning the forms. Very accurate with a high quality ruler.
	Pony Clamps: You can never have enough clamps. These 2 inch spring clamps act as an extra pair of hands and are used while making the cockpit coaming. Get at least a dozen, but 30 is not too many. There are cheaper ones available, but these hold up well to abuse.
	Combination Waterstone: All tools work best when sharp. Learn to sharpen your plane and jack-knife. This stone has course and fine sides. The Complete Guide to Sharpening.
	Porter Cable Jig Saw: Used for cutting out forms and cutting the cockpit and hatches.
Optional Tools
	Record Jack Plane: Useful for planing the cove or bead off strips or smoothing large areas. The block plane can do much of the work, but this can make it easier.
	Stanley Block Plane: Used for shaping strips to fit and for smoothing out the boat before sanding. Not quite as nice as the low angle version, but I have both.
	Stanley Spokeshave: There are some shapes that the block plane has trouble smoothing. Most of these can be handled with a spoke shave.
	Stanley Sharpening Jig: A simple tool to hold your block plane blade while sharpening. This makes it easier to get a good edge.
	Japanese Pull Saw: Like the saw above but with two different cutting edges, one for cross-cuts the other for rip cuts.
	Bevel Gauge: Useful for transferring angles. I've built boats for a long time without using one of these, but they are handy.
	Makita Cordless Drill/Screwdriver: Installing the forms on the strongback requires a lot of screws. A cordless screw driver is really nice.
	Porter Cable QuickSand Random Orbital Sander: This tool is a lot easier than hand sanding, and much better than the old orbital sander. 60 Grit Sand Paper, for rough sanding 80 Grit good for final sanding of strips, 120 Grit, 220 Grit, 320 Grit for final sanding before the last coat of varnish.
	Porter Cable Random Orbital Sander: Like the QuickSand above but more powerful. I really like this tool. Makes quick work of fairing and smoothing fiberglass.
	Porter Cable Right Angle Grinder: When outfitted with a sanding disk this tool can do a lot of damage in an awful hurry. Not too useful making boats, but really good for sculpting paddles.
	Delta Band Saw: A really useful tool for a variety of tasks. It is easier for cutting forms than the jig saw. A pricey item, but very useful.
	Quick-Grip Clamps: You can't have too many clamps. These are handy for a variety of tasks and can be operated one handed.
	Fein Detail Sander: This is a really nice tool for sanding in tight corners. It can also be outfitted with saw blades that do all sorts of cool things. A luxury item.
For Milling Strips: You can avoid these tools all together by purchasing a kit or buying pre milled strips. The milling of the strips only takes a day or so and you may be able to borrow a friends table saw to do it. Only purchase these tools if you plan to use them a lot in the future. They are really useful standard tools for a workshop so are worth getting, but the price can add up quick.
	Delta Unisaw: There are cheaper table saws that will do the trick, but the Unisaw sets the standard for high-end consumer saws.
	Freud 8" diameter Thin Kerf Blade: A little cheaper than the Forrest below, but still good quality cut. The smaller diameter helps make ripping easier.
	Forrest Thin Kerf Blade: Combined with the above table saw, this blade is top notch. Thinner kerf blades are available, but this will produce a smoother cut.
	Dewalt Thickness Planer: If you are going to put a cove and bead on your strips, it really helps to get them uniform thickness. The Dewalt does a nice job.
	Porter Cable Router: For adding the cove and bead to your strips.
	Delta Power Feed: A stock feeder pushes boards. Used on a table saw this will make your strips more uniform and it can also be mounted on your router table. A Luxury Item unless you cut a lot of strips.

Back to Book Page. Search this site.