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> If you have Canoecraft, look at page 93 for details on beveling the stem
> for a Wee Lassie. They key is to place a test strip in it's approximate
> location over the last two or three forms and see the angle it makes at
> the stem. Then plane the stem to approximately that bevel in that area,
> but remember that the bevel on either side of the test strip will be
> slightly different. In fact, the bevel will change more or less
> continously over it's length; this is called a rolling bevel and occurs in
> many places on many types of wooden boats. Be sure to maintain an even
> thickness on the flat area at the front of the stem. This will help in
> fitting the outer stem piece later. Work up to the final bevel slowly.
> When you are done your test strip should lie fair and contact the full
> width of the bevel.
As Mike mentions here, the stem bevel is a "rolling bevel", in that it changes from sheer to keel. I built the Wee Lassie II as a first project. I used a batten as mike suggested for checking the bevel as I planed the stem. When I got close to the right bevel, I took a batten, laminated a piece of 40 grit paper to it and used that for the final fairing of the bevel. It worked out well, but somehow (though I'd read and re-read Mac's book), I was too conservative in the amount of material I took off my stems. I think that Mac says to draw a centerline and bevel the stem to 1/8" on either side of the centerline, but I did not go that thin on the outside end of my inner stems. This resulted in the external stems being wider than what they should be...not a problem, but the ends are less fine than what I could have made them. Maybe that is a good thing......I'm not a very good canoe driver at this point (hadn't run in to anything yet though!). Hope this helps, garland
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Guillemot Kayak - High
Performance Wooden Sea Kayak Designs
