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Re: Scarf Joint Sanding Woes

Posted by: Rehd on November 26, 1999


> I'm building a Chesapeake 17 from plans, and am at the point of readying
> the panels for stitching. At the scarf joints, I sanded the epoxy blobs
> down to smooth them out with a ROS while the panels were still flat.
> Unfortunately, on one of the side panels, I sanded a little too
> aggressively and took a very small (about 1/2" x 1/2") area of
> the top veneer layer down to the second layer. Does anyone have
> suggestions on the best way to patch this up or perhaps covering it over
> with veneer strips. I do not plan to paint but will leave the kayak all
> natural wood. Thanks. Ted

Hi Ted {:o)

Well, you've heard all of the pretty answers, and some will and some won't work. Now, I'll give you an ugly answer and It WILL work. You and most others wouldn't even consider it, but, just listen. I personnally would cut a hole in that area and take out about a 1" x 2or 3" area. When you get over the shock, then let me tell you My theory. First of all, your problem is due to the outer veneer being tapered down to nothing. Assuming,.... NO, knowing that it couldn't get any thinner, then you MUST assume that the surrounding area is about paper thin as well. O.K., now when you apply a piece of veneer into that space, it is about 1/32nd" thick or thereabouts. Given the fact that you will be using something to bond it in place, that means you will have some glue or ? around the edges and will have to be sanded down as well as the new piece. That puts us back to what got you there in the first place. You won't be able to sand the surrounding areas without going through it as well.

My fix is that you cut out to where you may be safe ( thicker veneer ) to continue sanding :( or scraping the area. You should be able to match the grain fairly closely if not exactly. The cuts going "with" the grain will hide easily and the cross grain cuts will not be as noticeable if they are not right next to each other. As for cutting a hole, as apposed to trimming, cutting, and/or routing a piece of veneer: First of all it is easier. The preporation of a veneer can be time consuming and somewhat dangerous with any kind of knife or powertool, and especially that small. As I mentioned before, the surrounding area will not allow you to work it down to the disired thickness without causing further damage to the surrounding area. When you glue it down, you have a glue joint very close to the surface, and can be sanded into very easily, leaving a large discolored line. ( NO Solution ) With the piece cut out to thicker veneer, then the new piece glued in, the glue line is almost non-existant. You cut the plug large and sand it down to a snug, tapered fit and if you go slow, you have an almost invisible glue line. As for strength, I doubt there will be any loss of strength in such a small area, and in fact, the glued joint is probably stronger that the wood.

By this method, you have the thicker wood to work with in sanding, very small glue lines and if the grain is even close, nobody will be able to find it if they were looking. Only your hairdresser will know for sure. Now, are you man enough to cut a hole in that boat. LOL Give the veneer methods a try, but, I think you would have better luck with this method.

Rehd


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