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After stripping my 'yak using the T-beam strongback method, I'm at the fairing stage. I have the kayak upside down on the stands and have pulled the hull staples. My problem is that the deck now sags in the middle, along with the forms that are still secured to it with staples. So the hull is basically off of the forms and when I plane and sand, the hull flexes since it's no longer touching the forms. This makes fairing difficult.
The strapping tape that I used to keep the strips from sticking to the forms worked TOO well. Once I start pulling the deck staples, all of the forms are going to be falling loose, and I will have even more problems fairing the deck.
Has anyone else came across this problem and have some advice? For the moment I'm wrapping straps around the boat while I fair, and I've moved the stands together a bit to minimize sagging.
I went with the T-beam because it could be built with hand tools, as I am building in my apartment living room. From a stripping standpoint, neither the T-beam or the box-beam is superior, but I'm now finding that the box-beam method would be MUCH better for fairing.
Dean
This is an archived message from The Kayak Building Bulletin Board.
Guillemot Kayak - High
Performance Wooden Sea Kayak Designs
