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Unfortunately I don't have a scanner, so I can't post nice drawings like Mike can. But I think you have the idea right, and it will work with wood screws into your shear clamps. With my stripper I'll have to use a washer and locknut on the inside. Here are the steps that should clarify things:
1) Make an overlapping loop of webbing large enough for 1-3 bungees/lines to pass through.
2) Put a hole for the screw through the 2 overlapping ends.
3) Cut a slit or melt a small hole directly opposite the overlap that will allow the screw head and screwdriver to pass through.
4) Put a washer (stainless steel or rubber plumbing) inside the loop, and drive the screw completely through the slit and down onto the washer underneath.
5) Thread the bungee through the loop.
Not a thousand words, but I hope this is good for a visualization.
Dean
> This is an incredibly interesting idea, Dean. (And, for me, the timing on
> this could not be better.) But I don't think I fully understand what
> you're doing. (Do understand Mike's idea, but, in most cases with my CLC
> North Bay, I don't have easy/any access to the inside of the hull, so must
> install deck fittings in the blind.)
> Could your scheme work from the outside only? Or did I not understand the
> idea? I can conceive of a loop, the top of which is slit longtitudinally
> with a razor blade and sealed with a soldering iron providing access for a
> screw driver, then screwed through the deck into the (in a CLC boat) sheer
> clamps. Is that what you were suggesting? And do you think that would work
> as well?
> Great ideas, in any event, gents. Thanks.
> Jack Martin
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Guillemot Kayak - High
Performance Wooden Sea Kayak Designs
