This is an archived message posted to the Kayak Building Bulletin Board. If you would like to ask a question about building kayaks, you can post a new message.
> bill, I still don't know why print through occurs, but why the fast heat
> curing? seems to me there's a bit of a risk of getting bubbles in green
> epoxy. I sometimes wonder if the humidity of the wood affects later print
> through. NO LEE I don't intend cook it from the start I have good luck getting the shop at about 75 degrees for a few hours then turning the heat down and glassing when the temperature is falling and keeping the shop between 65 -70 degrees and doing the fill coats between six and eight hours apart then letting it cure for a few days before cooking it . I believe it was Ray Jardine's site where he built an autoclave from styrofoam to toast his kayaks , something about completing crosslinking of the epoxy molecules between the layers of epoxy but those where composite boats. Ted Moores In Canoe Craft advises heating the epoxy with a hair dryer or heat gun to prevent printthrough . and I read it somewhere else recently...it escapes me now . You may be on to something with the moisture content ,I've noticed it was really bad around the hatches of the kayak possibly not sealed completely on the end grain where the hatches where cut out..but why print the cloth pattern ..beats me? just wondering if the West epoxy higher in VOCs and outglassing and shrinking extremely slow with the slow hardener ...I Dunno...
Thanks
Bill
This is an archived message from The Kayak Building Bulletin Board.
Guillemot Kayak - High
Performance Wooden Sea Kayak Designs
