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Hi Bigbob,
I'm supposing you're talking about Nick's S&G plans from the internet. If
> I were you I wouldn't bother with the forms. They aren't true anyway.
> Stitch every thing together and just use sticks to open up the hull. Cut
> them to the lenght equal to the width the hull is suppose to have at that
> point. Use about 8 sticks.
If the forms are not true, how do you determine the width that the hull is supposed to be at these locations?
I used foam blocks to support both ends to help
> keep the right shape while I put the fillet in. If you put the sticks at
> the same location on both, the hull and the deck, you are sure to have 2
> matching openigns when the time comes to tape them together. Be specialy
> carefull around the ends. Once the fillets are done in those area, they
> tend to keep there shape. So if they don't match you will have to use
> putty to smooth things out when both halfs will be taped together
I have heard of references to builders using dabs of epoxy (thickened, I guess) on the seams as a sort of 'spot welding'. This sounds like what Shawn was talking about. What if the hull and the deck were wired separately , then the deck was placed onto the hull, and wired in place. Could this spot welding be used on the outside seams ( of the deck and of the hull but NOT the shear seam)? This should ensure that the two halves would match?? Then remove the wires at the shear joint and carefully separate the two halves and go on to the interior fillets and taping. Any problems with doing it this way?
> I'm building my second kayak from Nick's plan...
Making any modifications?
> The first one I built had a little bit of negative rocker just back of the
> cokpit area. I tried to fix it on the second one... But it's still there.
What is negative rocker? Does it curve 'up' in the middle of the kayak?
kelly
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Guillemot Kayak - High
Performance Wooden Sea Kayak Designs
