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> My first boat project was a 14' canoe. A real beauty. Now I want to build
> another one, after I finish my second kayak wich is half way there. But I
> would like to make it longer and fancier than the first one.
> So I thought of a way to build it without staples. I don't want to use
> special clamps and I want the project to go along at a good pace. Not just
> 4 strips a day...First let me tell you I'm using the bead and cove strips.
> Here is the way I would do it. There is a glue I use in model airplane
> building. It's a little like Crazy Glue... It's called cyanoacrylate. It
> as the advantage of setting fast (a few seconds) and being very strong.
> But... It is also very brittle and cost a fortune. This is why I wouldn't
> use it for the whole project.
> So I would use my regular glue all along the strip, except the 2"
> near the forms. Here I would use the Cyano glue. This glue would act as
> little spot welds, to hold the strip in place while the other glue sets.
> To temporarely clamp the strip in place, I would screw small pieces (
> 4" ) of strips to the forms, just above the long strip. With the bead
> and cove action, the little top strip will hold the long bottom one in
> place. By the time I'm finished with one side, the other should be ready.
> All I have to do is remove the strip clamps and start over.
> If the canoe wall wants to move away from certain forms, I will screw
> small wooden blocks on the forms, right next to the canoe strips. I will
> then spot glue the side of the wall to this small block. It won't damage
> the wood to much when the glue joint will be broken. But should be strong
> enough to hold everything in place. To remove from the form, just unscrew
> the block...
> This way I will have the advantage of the fast setting Cyano acting as
> clamps, and the holding power of the regular one.
> What do you guys think...
Bigbob, may I call you Bob for short??
I have used the same/similar technique for building small cabinet doors. I learned about the Cyano glue in model airplanes also. I would use the titebond glue to put the doors together, clamp them, then dab a drop or two in the inside,back corners to hold them, and I could remove the clamps and go on to another door. I never used it where it would show, and always kept the drops small and hidden. That stuff doesn't sand too well. I learned of the stuff from a friend who raced the 1/4 scale pylon racers 9 warbirds and unlimiteds ) and used to build a plane in a day or two. If you ever watched the races, his name is/was Bob Thomas. He passed away Christmas Eve. Good pilot and wonderful friend. He tought me a lot of little tricks like that. And a quickie clamp that I will use on my Great Auk, is a wooden clothes pin taken apart ( two halves ) and when glueing the strips with the yellow glue, then at the forms, just lay the clothes pin on the form to where the rounded end is on the strip and the beveled end is almost flat on the form, then tack it in place with a brad gun. When all in place, the drop of cyano glue will take over when applied in spots. Others have talked about the hot glue, which will work as well. Good ideas. I don't want the staple holes if possible. If I have to use them, then, I have some techniques on coloring putties to hide the holes. What's on the market never seems to match the wood colors and stands out about the same as the holes. Hope all this helps somewhat.
Rehd
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Guillemot Kayak - High
Performance Wooden Sea Kayak Designs
