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> I am just beginning a wood and canvas kayak. As a beginner, I plan to rely
> rather heavily on George Putz's book as well as related advice I can
> receive here. A few start-up questions: (1) I will be building in my
> unheated garage in Connecticut, although I will periodically be using a
> small electric heater. Putz recommends fastening with screws and epoxy.
> What kind of epoxy is recomended for these conditions (temperatures may
> vary from 15 degrees to 55 degrees in a 24-hour period)? I am assuming
> that some of the concerns I've read on this Board relate more specifically
> to strip building epoxy use and that the limited adhesive-related epoxy
> usage called for by Putz will raise fewer temperature-related concerns.
> Any thoughts would be much appreciated. (2) I plan to follow Putz's
> approach and, assuming availability at local yards, use quarter-sawn ash
> for the keelsons and keel, and quarter-sawn Eastern white cedar for
> stringers, chines and gunwales. Any thoughts on alternative woods if these
> are hard to come by? Should I be concerned about structural integrity if
> 17 foot lengths are unavailable and I need to scarf shorter lengths? (3)
> Finally, assuming the wood stock has been planed to proper thickness (7/8
> inch), is it possible for a beginner to rip the required 3/8 inch strips
> using a portable circular handsaw (Putz appears to do it) or should I make
> sure to access a friend's table saw? Thanks in advance for all your help.
Gary.......If at all possible, try to get that friend all fired up and inlist his/her help with the strips on the table saw. But.......and this is not a whole hearted recommendation, you can rig a standard Circular/Skil saw to rip. I have used one and have seen many a contractor build a little table out of plywood, a couple of 2 x's to make a short table saw. You use a straight edge, run the circular saw down the length of the plywood at a depth of no more than 1/16th inch. Then, in the middle of that kerf, loosen the blade/depth screw and slowly lower the blade through the plywood. Just in one spot. Stop the saw with the blade still in the kerf. Either measure the distance from the inside edge of that kerf to the outside edge of the saws base or just draw a pencil line along the base. Remove the saw and turn the plywood over and you take that measurement and put it in the same direction on the back side. Now, you put a couple of holes in the base for mounting screws and either use the new line or attach a stop block along the edge of your saw base to maintain alignment(?spelling) and mount the saw. Turn back over and mount a fence along the kerf, at whatever thickness you wish to cut. Make the legs out of the 2 x's in a box-frame sort of arrangement, and it only has to be tall enough to clear the saw. Clamp it to a workbench/table top ( preferably not the kitchen table ). Set the depth, get a good push stick, a couple of feather boards, before and after the blade, and you are in business. Most saws have a trigger lock, so, turn it on and lock it on to use. Carbide blades are best, and I would go so far as to say a must. Your typical circular saw doesn't have all that much Hp. and depending on the wood ( hardness ) it will take all of it to do the job. It's not the best of tools, but, as I said, I've seen it work and you can't beat the price, for a few cuts. The friends table saw is still the best choice, but............................
The cuts may be a bit rough, or have some lines in them, if the saw isn't lined up perfect, but, a little tweeking of the saw base will usually take care of that. Besides, the flat surface is not all that critical as it will not be THAT rough and it will be either planed, scraped and/or sanded when it's together.
For what it's worth...........
Rehd
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Guillemot Kayak - High
Performance Wooden Sea Kayak Designs
