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> HI John,
> The inlay strips that you mentioned would work very well. The only problem
> that I have with them are that they are very thin. (1/28") Which
> dosen't leave much to sand flush, so your routed groove will have to be
> very close to that depth. I would recommend that you set the inlay strip
> very slightly below the depth of the plywood face, then very gently sand
> the ply face down to the inlay. Pratice on scrap first and develope a
> method that works for you. The advantage of making your own strips is that
> you can make them thicker, up to about half of the thickness of your
> okoume deck ply.
That sounds like trouble on a cambered deck. If you're doing it on a flat panel that will have glass (even thin glass) on both sides, it would work great.
> I don't believe that there would be any loss of strength in the deck as
> the inlay strip replaces any material that you remove. Okoume is very soft
> and relativly weak, however inlay woods are usually harder, stronger
> species. You may actually gain strength in local areas depending on the
> grain direction of the inlay.
You'd gain compressive strength, but your tensile strength would suffer; maybe using a good dollop of epoxy to glue it in would help matters there.
> I just finished doing a inlay in the deck of a CLC Chessie 17. I resawed
> my own venreer and planed it to 1/16". I find it almost impossible to
> do marquetry using 1/28" sliced veneer.
Does the 1/16" stuff plane very well? My brother and I tried paper-backed 1/28" veneer, but it's damn near impossible to sand, like you said, because there is so little wood.
> If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to contact me at
> dan.ernst@worldnet.att.net Sincerly,
Will you have photos? I'd love to see your inlay.
Shawn
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Guillemot Kayak - High
Performance Wooden Sea Kayak Designs
