This is an archived message posted to the Kayak Building Bulletin Board. If you would like to ask a question about building kayaks, you can post a new message.
> That sounds like trouble on a cambered deck. If you're doing it on a flat
> panel that will have glass (even thin glass) on both sides, it would work
> great.
> You'd gain compressive strength, but your tensile strength would suffer;
> maybe using a good dollop of epoxy to glue it in would help matters there.
The inlay is glued into the routed recess using epoxy, so in essence, it becomes the new outside of the ply. I use a structual epoxy adhesive called T88 rather than epoxy thickened with cab-o-sil. I have been using T88 for years without a single glue joint failure. I have sucessfully used it in the construction of two experimental airplanes so I literally bet my life on it every time I fly. I am sure there are other products that are equal but I am comfortable with the it through experience.
> Does the 1/16" stuff plane very well? My brother and I tried
> paper-backed 1/28" veneer, but it's damn near impossible to sand,
> like you said, because there is so little wood.
I run my resawn wood through the planer to a thickness of 1/16", then use this material to do the marquetry. On this project, I used holly and walnut. It planes fine as long as there isn't a lot of curly grain. If it's curly or highly figured, it has a tendancy to pull and tear. The sliced veneer is almost impossible to do marquetry with, however, the sawn 1/6" stock marquetry must be done with a scroll saw using a 02 blade and cut on a 8% to 10% bevel. With this method, you get a perfect fit of the pieces.
> Will you have photos? I'd love to see your inlay.
I dont have a picture of the inlay in the boat but I'll scan a image of a pratice inlay this evening and send it to you.
> Shawn
This is an archived message from The Kayak Building Bulletin Board.
Guillemot Kayak - High
Performance Wooden Sea Kayak Designs
