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At the start of the day I went into the shop and turned the heat up to 80° F (27° C) and made sure the lamp I keep on my epoxy to keep it warm was turned on. This assures the epoxy flows easily.
I rolled the cloth out on the boat about an hour before I started glassing. I could have done it earlier, but I did want to give it some time to warm up to room temperature.
I posted a long article about staining about a week ago, and here is some video to accompany it.
I'm using the Behlens Solar-Lux dye (Cordovan Mahogany), but I wanted to keep the added color a little light so I thinned the stain heavily with denatured alcohol.
Here is where you start to see the beauty of the wood. The drips of glue get scraped off, the angles between strips get planed down and the wood gets sanded.
I constructed the coaming recess in the last post, now the trick is to install it in the boat. I start by smoothing the deck a little by giving it a quick scraping. This just makes it a little easier to mark the hole.
The Petrel has a unique recess around the cockpit. This lowers the back of the coaming which allows for easier rolling and it also helps create a good place for thigh/knee braces.
The Petrel has a distinct feature line on the front deck where there is a sharp, chine-like angle in the surface of the deck extending forward from either side of the cockpit. The feature does not extend all the way to the end of the boat, but just a few feet from the cockpit.
For the deck I wanted the stern to match the bow as well as book matched. I have sometimes done this by getting two consecutive flitch-cut boards using the strips from one board for the bow, and the other board for the stern. The joint in the middle near the cockpit is not very noticable because the wood matches quite closely. I was not able to find flitch cut planks for this boat.
The sheer strip on the deck are similar to the sheer strips on the hull. The difference is that now you have existing strips to fit agains. Like the hull I chose to taper the ends of the strips to match the sheer strips on the hull. I tapered both sides at the same time.
After the stripping is done on the hull, it is time to flip it over. I got Robin to help and rested the now-upright hull on some foam saddles.