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All the strips follow the first one in one way or another, therefore it is important to get the first strip along the sheer right. On most of my plans I include a mark that indicates the location of the sheer. This mark is typically placed at an angle to the side of the form.
The easiest way to set up the forms for woodstrip kayak is using an internal strongback. Here I use a 2" x 4" x 13' aluminum extrusion with 1/8" thick walls. The bow end has been tapered so it can reach farther into the bow of the heavily rockered boat.
Cutting strips is always a little tedious. It is primarily a matter of feeding the wood through the saw. When you intend to bookmatch the strips on the boat you also need to keep the strips in order.
I've started building a Petrel for a customer. I'll be using 3/16" western red cedar, book matching and building without staples. In this video I'm doing one of the first steps necessary to build a strip-planked boat from scratch. I'm cutting the forms.
In this series of videos I document the building of a pair of mahogany strip-planked microBootleggers. I built these boats for a customer who wanted "book-matched" mahogany strips and a carbon fiber interior built without staples.