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Repairing a Split Strip

The first part of this video make look familiar. While releasing the hull from the forms in the last video, I ended up splitting one of the strips.

Flipping the Forms and Releasing the Hull

After the stripping is done on the hull, it is time to flip it over. I got Robin to help and rested the now-upright hull on some foam saddles.

Fitting the Closing Strip

After working diligently on stripping the bottom you eventually come to a time when there is just one strip left. If you are using cove and bead strips you will want to have removed the cove from the second-to-last strips so you have a nice straight-sided hole to drop the last strip into.

Stripping up the Bottom

Stripping the bottom is much like installing the cheater strips, with the major difference that you need to shape and fit both ends of the strip so the length is correct. Since I am bookmatching these strips I also need to do this while maintaining the grain alignment.

Installing the Keel Strips

On this Petrel I chose to do a "side herringbone" stripping pattern on the bottom. This involves running strips down the keel line and then filling in on either side.

Stripping past the Chine

The Petrel has a hard chine. This creates some issues specific to the boat that must be dealt with. You want the strips to reach the chine evenly. I.e. you don't want the first strip to hit the chine to be high on it at one point and low on it farther down the boat.

Installing Cheater Strips

In the previous video I installed two strips, the Sheer Strip which follows the shear line and then the second strip which follows a more natural bend. Between these two strip there is a gap at each end.

Installing the Sheer Strips

All the strips follow the first one in one way or another, therefore it is important to get the first strip along the sheer right. On most of my plans I include a mark that indicates the location of the sheer. This mark is typically placed at an angle to the side of the form.

Assembling Forms to Make Strip-Planked Wooden Sea Kayak

The easiest way to set up the forms for woodstrip kayak is using an internal strongback. Here I use a 2" x 4" x 13' aluminum extrusion with 1/8" thick walls. The bow end has been tapered so it can reach farther into the bow of the heavily rockered boat.

Milling Cedar Strips for a Bookmatched Petrel

Cutting strips is always a little tedious. It is primarily a matter of feeding the wood through the saw. When you intend to bookmatch the strips on the boat you also need to keep the strips in order.

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