My old website had them and some people have asked about them and now they are back. I have stability and drag (how much force is needed to go a given speed) data for most of my designs.
Fitting in the Whiskey strip of the closing strip on the bottom.
I like to do most of the work before gluing the scarf on the shaft together. This just keeps the parts easy to handle while doing the work.
It is amazing how much strength a layer of 2-ounce fiberglass will add to the wood. Between the two and with the cord around the edge the paddle blade can absorb a lot of abuse.
I regularly bounce my paddles off rocks. I want a rugged and durable edge to absorb the abuse. I have found that para-cord saturated in epoxy resin is very tough. While you can't exactly cut down a tree with these paddles, they will handle paddling in rock gardens or doing whitewater.
This is the hardest part of the process. I use a right angle grinder to do some freehand shaping and then refine the shape with hand tools. I try to make the edges of the blade nice and thin to keep the paddle light, while leaving the central section of the blade full thickness for strength.